I am In Santiago de Compostela comfortably ensconced in a magnificent hotel.  I believe this was once a Monastery and now it is a 5 star hotel attached to a Church.  Looking out my window I’m not so sure there aren’t residence of some kind behind the Church.

Upon arrival in Santiago there are a few rituals that most Pilgrims adhere to.  First, there is a Scallop shell carved into the center of the square in front of the church.  I got down on my knees and kissed it.  Second is to attend the noon Mass in the Cathedral which is dedicated to Pilgrims.  It was beautiful.  They had a singing Nun that brought tears to my eyes although these days a McDonald’s ad can do the same.  Lastly you circle around behind the altar and embrace a statue of St James.  They don’t let you put your arms around it so I just put my hand on his shoulder.  Didn’t feel anything but his bones are on display there as well.

Today was undoubtedly the worst weather day we’ve had since the two days of rain we had early on.  I left in the dark which was spooky as hell, and headed out on my own.  Everybody else had walked an extra 4km the previous day and were taking the vans to their starting point.   I passed all but two of them before we got to Santiago.  Still on fire.  But walking through the forest with the wind whistling through the trees, raindrops showering down on my coat, and the occasional bright green eyes staring at me out of the bushes at the far reaches of my flashlight.  They were probably just cats but it freaked me out.  Every 50 feet or so I would spin around and make sure I wasn’t being followed.  When the sun came up I was still unnerved.

I did not know what to expect emotionally when I arrived but instead of being overwrought, I felt an enormous sense of relief. After the Mass I took one of those naps where you wake up drooling on yourself and i’m just trying to dry out my boots so I can wear them to dinner tonight.  Who knew that my walking shoes were not only NOT water resistant, water runs through them like their was a spigot on the inside of the shoe. I only have two pairs of shoes and my boots and shoes are soaked from todays 4 hour run in horizontal blowing rain and the short walk over to the Cathedral.

Today, about 5 km out, one of the fellow trekkers took a picture of me because I had taken a black trash bag, ripped the bottom out of it and was wearing it like a dress.  It kept most of the water off of my upper leg for a while but even that failed me before I got here.  Anyway, I had several people comment on my “rain suit” so when I get the picture I will re-post this page.

I’m exhausted from the inside out.  I’m sorry but the juices are not flowing right now.  I can’t tell you about the dumb ass Aussie and his outrageous behavior in the Cathedrdal today but perhaps I will  some day.  (I honestly think he took too many bumps to the head because “that boy ain’t right”).   In fact, there is so much more to tell I’m overwhelmed, especially now that it’s all done.  Have I mentioned that DAMN THAT WAS HARD.

Buen Camino – Hard Camino – Done Camino

Joe Jeter, November 3, 2014